Tulum, Mexico
The Perfect Escape to Get You Through the Rest of Winter
Have you ever traveled to a place that just felt like home the minute you drove in? That’s how I felt about Tulum upon our arrival. We booked our first trip during Christmas 2018 and loved it so much we came back during March 2019 and February 2020. Here are some of my favorite things to do there.
Tulum is different than other tourist destinations I’ve previously visited in Mexico. There are no all-inclusive resorts with sprawling properties. It’s a small town with a split personality. One one side is the town itself, inhabited by roughly 18,000 people. A 2 mile long road connects the main town to the beachside area which is lined with eco-friendly boutique hotels, bars, restaurants and shops. From the chic ladies at treehouse-inspired design hotel Azulik to barefoot yogis en route to a sound healing, Tulum attracts very different personalities.
We like to rent a car and split our time between a rented apartment in town and a few nights at a nice hotel by the beach. There are so many amazing options on Airbnb if you’d like to stay in town, most of which have glowing reviews, so it depends on the size of your family/group you’re traveling with. You really can’t go wrong. You also get to experience more of the local culture this way and if you’re renting a car you have the flexibility to move to-from the beach and take various day trips to the surrounding area. For hotel options, we really liked La Zebra, Sanara and Jashita.
Lots of travel blogs recommend renting bikes or a scooter instead of a car as traffic can get quite bad but I’m not a biker and my husband was up for the driving challenge. If you’re up for an adventure, though, definitely opt for the bike route. We were stuck in traffic and had bikes zoom past us on many occasions.
Get Your Pesos
I’m a laid back traveler and had few things on my agenda this trip: FOOD, SUNSHINE, MORE FOOD. But first, an important tip if you plan on visiting: get cash in pesos. Don’t be fooled by the “convenience” of places accepting US dollars or ATMs that dispense US cash - USD prices are 20-30% higher than what it costs to pay in pesos. Lots of places are cash only, so you have to be prepared. Once you’re in Tulum, the ATMs in town are perpetually out of pesos or have giant service fees. We’ve had the best luck going into the banks directly right when they opened. A friendly shopkeeper also suggested using ATMs inside local grocery store Chedraui as those didn’t run out of cash as quickly.
Hit the Beach, and a Cenote or Two
We had a nice roof deck and pool at our Airbnb which satisfied the need for sunshine on a daily basis, but nothing compares to sitting oceanside with some sand between your toes.
Public beach access: there is plenty of public beach space in Tulum but most of it can be difficult to access because of the way the road and hotel entries are positioned. There is a main entry point for the beach as well as free roadside parking on the far left side of the main beach road. Bring your own umbrella, towels, beach blankets, snacks, drinks and have yourself a lovely day. I would suggest doing this earlier in the day when it is less crowded. There are also various places selling refreshments and beachside massages along the way. Playa Paraiso is a gorgeous local beach where you can rent chairs and umbrellas if needed.
Private beach access via a hotel: most of the hotels will let you use their beach loungers and facilities if you consume food & drinks at their restaurants. Spots are limited since they reserve most of their beach facilities for hotel guests, but it’s worth it. Bring your own towels.
Casa Malca had the most expansive facilities including large comfy beds, cabanas and a pool. This came with the steepest consumption rate of $75 USD per person. The rest of the places we checked out were between $35-$50 USD per person minimum spend. Nomade, Coco and La Zebra also caught my eye, the latter being our personal fave. Papaya Playa Project was wonderful as well, with plenty of beach beds, towels and on-side showers if needed. The minimum spend per person was 1000 pesos but well worth it for a solid beach day. Taboo Beach Club was highly recommended as well, and although we didn’t check it out, it would be a great option if you enjoy DJs a more lively atmosphere.
Rainy day? Go to a cenote: We caught a couple of rainy days but it was no problem whatsoever as Tulum is surrounded by cenotes - beautiful natural sinkholes revealing crystal clear groundwater and impressive caves. My inner geology geek was so happy to explore these marvels. There are hundreds of cenotes in the area - you can book in with a local guide to take you to some that are off-the-beaten-path. We opted for some more common ones - Gran Cenote nearby and Cenote Choo-Ha near the town of Coba.
A Step Back in Time
Tulum is home to the ruins of an ancient Mayan port city which you can explore freely or via guided tour. You purchase tickets at the entrance of the park. There is parking nearby as well, for a fee. The structures are beautifully preserved and perched upon beachside cliffs - the views being absolutely breathtaking. There wasn’t a lot of information available on each structure, so if you want to learn more about what you’re looking at, I would strongly suggest booking a tour guide. There are also two public beaches that you can reach from the archeological site. One of the beaches was closed off during our visit as it was home to several turtle nests!
About an hour and a half away are the ruins of the ancient Mayan city of Coba. This was our favorite archeological site to explore. It’s situated in a gorgeous park which you can explore on foot or on bikes that you can rent at the front desk. It is home to two large Mayan pyramids, one of which you can still climb. After the archeological site we drove to Coqui Coqui nearby for lunch. This is a beautiful tiny boutique hotel with an exquisite spa, perfumery and restaurant. The lunch we had was one of our favorites and their perfumes are to die for - highly recommend stopping by if you’re a fragrance junkie like me! We purchased the Coco Coco, Rosas Secas and Tabaco scents from the fragrance shop. They also make their own candles, room diffusers, bath oils, coffee blends and honey. On our two subsequent trips to the area we ended up booking a couple of nights at the hotel, too, and it was incredible. Highly recommend doing so if you want 24-48 hours of pure bliss and disconnection from the rest of the world. A peek into our stay was on my Instagram here.
Food, Food, Food
“Will travel for food” is most definitely one of my mottos, and there was no shortage of delicious food on this trip. I went in with a Google Doc of 20+ recommendations scouted from the internet and from friends who had previously visited. Here were my culinary highlights:
Humo Great atmosphere and conveniently located in walking distance from our apartment downtown Tulum. Humo had an eclectic menu and a cozy “dining in a tent in the jungle” vibe. You sit on the floor on comfortable cushions, surrounded by candles and incense which makes for a lovely date night. The tortillas they make were insanely delicious - there’s just something about the flavour of the corn that left me craving more.
El Carboncito If you want a quick and delicious “fast food” style taco fix on the main street in town, this place is awesome. Be careful with the salsas because one of them is KILLER spicy. We came back here twice. The chicken and vegetable taco plates were delicious, as was the queso fundido. Cash only.
Palma Central A local park downtown Tulum converted into a food truck space. Plenty of picnic tables and cuisines to choose from, from Venezuelan to classic Mexican to chicken wings and pizza. Bathrooms on site, as well as a play place for kids. On most evenings they had live music, which created a really fun atmosphere.
Burrito Amor An outdoor restaurant downtown Tulum serving up delicious burritos - vegan and vegetarian options included. Their cactus salad and guacamole were especially delicious. Open from breakfast ‘til dinner.
Tulum Art Club & Raw Love Cafe Cute cafe, shared workspace and shop on the main road in Tulum. If you’re in the mood for a great latte or smoothie, stop on by. I had the best smoothie bowl I’ve ever had, along with “raw pizza” which was more delicious than it sounds. They also sell art made by local young artists, hence the name. Lots of really cool photography, pottery and prints were available for purchase. Raw Love Cafe also has a large location on the beach by the main beach road.
El Camello Jr A more authentic fish taco experience on the main road in Tulum. The guacamole and nachos were also delicious, but I was partial to the grilled fish tacos. They have tons of seafood specials as well and it’s a place that was highly recommended to us by several locals. Tacos are only available for lunch (until 4 PM).
Arca Inventive cuisine focused on “open flame” cooking. Really fun atmosphere, great cocktails and small plates designed to share.
Posada Margherita Fresh pasta and seafood. Simple menu, daily specials and an incredible chocolate mousse dessert. We came back twice. This restaurant is located on the beach so if you come during the day you can take in the ocean views. Fun, lively atmosphere at night and there’s a pizzeria at the front of the property as well if you’re not in the mood for pasta. Posada Margherita is cash only. Leave room for the chocolate mousse.
Hartwood Perhaps the most often lauded restaurant in Tulum. Menu changes daily so things are always super fresh. They take reservations a month in advance via their website, or you can try your luck by walking in and waiting a healthy hour or so for a seat. Best ceviche I’ve ever had.
Gitano Super trendy - felt like a supper club in NYC in the summer (see first two pictures above). The atmosphere was really fun and the bar area was always poppin’. They have live music two days a week and a DJ & dancing on the weekends. We went on a live music night and it was really nice. I loved the decor and the food was delicious. Expensive, but delicious. I still dream about their grilled avocado appetizer.
Charly’s Vegan Tacos As the name suggests - bangin’ vegan tacos that I still think about to this day.
The Real Coconut Delicious health-conscious spot on the beach, perfect for breakfast of lunch. They’re dairy, gluten, and refined sugar free.
Origami Gelato Probably the best gelato I’ve ever had outside of Italy. It is SO good. I had the Ferrero Rocher flavor and I wish I could have it on tap, available to me daily. They serve three delicious vegan options as well. It was a frequent stop for us and there are two locations, both on the main beach road.
Overall, my husband and I really fell in love with Tulum and its surrounding area. We have loved coming back and slowly discovering more of what it has to offer and everyone we have encountered has been nothing bur kind and incredibly friendly. I can’t wait until next year when we hope to expand our horizons and also visit more places including Bacalar, Valladolid and Merida.
